Lonely Catskills and Entering Vermont

This morning we woke to a beautiful day, stretched and went running (well, jogging). I'm surprised how sore I have been after riding 6-7 hours. But I don't want to use that as an excuse to not exercise.

Headed out of the Catskills, stopping at Katerskill Falls. After parking, we walked a quarter mile along a busy highway to the Falls, much more dangerous than riding the motorcycle. Not sure it was worth the risk.

The Catskills appear a bit down on their luck. At least half of the roadside restaurants are out of business, the towns are very quiet, and few cars are at the hotels. I wonder what it was like in the 40's, 50's, and 60's. Now it just seems lonely.

Entered Vermont by twisting back roads, riding through small villages at low speeds. Not much traffic. Found a great campground-- Winhall Campground at Bald Mountain Lake. great = cheap ($18), pretty, free hot showers, and a wifi area with outlets.

Fast miles, Phoenicia, and the deserted drugstore.

Ate a good, filling, and cheap breakfast in Lancaster. Two eggs, toast, potatoes, and coffee for $5. Went by the Harley Davidson factory. Saw many bald headed men with one pierced ear heading to work.

Today we rode fast to make up time lost due to rain. Four lane highways rather than back roads. I have been surprised by our slow pace. Originally I imagined us riding only four hours a day, covering 200 miles. Wrong.

After we set up camp at the state campground in the Catskills, we headed to Phoenicia, a little town with ice cream, pizza, grocery store, and Grateful Dead fans. The coolest thing in town was a shut-down drugstore with all the merchandise inside. Everything was faded from the sun and a layer of dust was on the counters. Prescriptions were filed, waiting to be picked up by customers.

There has to be a story here...

Skyline Drive and the Deserted Campground. 8/20/2012

Woke up to no rain! Ate breakfast at the Big Meadows Lodge. Cheap breakfast with wonderful coffee. Headed out at 9:00 a.m. Leisurely is our style.

Drove to Harpers Ferry. John was surprised at the sites-- great natural beauty, historic town, John Brown information, and ice cream. There was also the John Brown wax museum. John talked me out of paying the seven dollar entrance fee... but I already regret the decision. John Brown AND a wax museum- TOGETHER!! I shall return.

We were on the bridge that crosses the Potomac when a train passed within three feet. Fun and scary.

We have been riding fewer miles than planned due to the rain. Tonight we stopped right as it began to pour rain. The Indian Rock Campground near York. The place seemed deserted. Gunshots heard nearby. Big flocks of black birds circling overhead. We sat under an awning for two hours, waiting for the rain to let up.

"Pennsylvania-- Philadelphia at one end, Pittsburg at the other, and Alabama in between."

Rainy day on the Parkway. 8/19/2012

Woke to rain. Debated to stay or venture out. Headed out in cold rain. Discovered my rain pants are not really rain pants.

After a couple of hours, headed off the Parkway to look for breakfast. Ended up in Buena Vista. Nothing but fast food open on this Sunday morning. Ate at Hardees. Do you know you can buy a double cheeseburger, chili dog, fries, apple pie, and soda for $5? Those have to be the cheapest 2000 calories ever.

Once the fog lifted, it was a beautiful ride along Skyline Drive. Amazing views made more dramatic by the clouds. But riding in the rain is difficult, riding while cold is even more difficult so we called it quits 50 miles early. Pulled into the Big Meadows Campground.

Hot showers and a dryer for our clothes-- so wonderful, hard to describe. Hung out in the warm lodge, drank some cocoa, and played with our electronic toys.

Beginning of a motorcycle ramble 8/18/2012

Dropped Emma of at university to begin her freshman year. Sad to leave her but excited about the next five months. John and I are on sabbatical. Our house has been rented and we are on the road. Two and a half weeks in campgrounds between North Carolina and Quebec plus four months in France.

Leaving Chapel Hill, it didn't take long to leave behind the urban and enter beautiful Virginia. After riding for 4 hours we camped at Peaks of Otter, along the Blue Ridge Parkway. We got in at dark, made Mac and cheese, and drank cocoa. No showers in campground-- fine with me. Freed from the tyranny of hygiene.

Three Cities bike tour, May 12-19, 2012

Our annual bike tour, hosted by Paul Gordy. This year we rode from Lancaster, Pa. to Washington, D.C. to Baltimore to Philadelphia and back to Lancaster. 512 mile in eight days.

We ride with this group every year and have a great time. We talk about cycling and food-- never about work or politics. For me, the trip is all about freeing my mind and challenging my endurance.

This was actually an easy tour compared to the other annual rides. Every other year, the tour is on the Blue Ridge Parkway-- a grueling yet rewarding ride.

Great mix of highway, bike paths, back roads, and urban riding. Highlights included professional baseball games in all three cities, eating at Chick and Ruth's in Annapolis, a rainy day of riding/sightseeing in D.C., hospitality at Darryl and Sandy's house, Gettysburg, riding the train into Philadelphia, and Valley Forge.



 

Paul Gordy, friend and trip organizer

News article about Paul Gordy, organizer of May bike tour.